Fruit Trees - Essential Aftercare for Good Crops
Clean Up Leaves & Prunings
When the crop is in, and winter is knocking on the door, rake up the fallen leaves and twigs from under your fruit trees. Then BURN them or take them to the DUMP. Do not compost them. More fungal infections overwinter on fallen fruit leaves than anywhere else.
When you have done that - clear a circle, down to bare earth around each tree with a radius of 30 cms (45 is better) and keep it clear if you can. It deters crawly pests, stops weed competition and makes mowing without bashing the trunks of your fruit trees much easier.
Pruning is like Surgery: Growth Follows the Knife
Pruning is a big topic, so two easy tips:
Remove dead, damaged or diseased wood at any time, but do all other pruning at the right time of year. For most structrual pruning, that means when your fruit trees are dormant in late Autumn or Winter, on a mild day. Avoid pruning when the temperature is below zero.
The exception is stone fruit, which is the Prunus family such as cherries, plums, apricots, etc. These are prone to Silver Leaf disease and should be pruned when the sap is flowing, starting from Spring after bud break until late summer (Prun-us in Summer).
Use clean tools (wiped with a disinfectant such as Dettol between each cut) that are as sharp as possible to make the cleanest pruning cut. And then seal the wound with a pruning compound such as Medo or Prune 'n Seal.
Remove Up to 30% of the Fruit: Quality Over Quantity!
It is so tempting to let your fruit trees crop their socks off. Don't succumb to temptation.
In the year after planting, by all means let your trees flower, but remove ALL the fruitlets that form after flowering as soon as you see them.
Do not let your trees fruit within 12 months of planting as their energies need to be diverted into establishing a large root system to support future harvests. Not doing this can stress your tree and in extreme circumstances can kill it.
In subsequent years, in June you will see a lot of baby fruit fall off the tree. This is called the June Drop and is nature's way of making sure the tree does not stress itself by over-fruiting.
When the June drop is finished, do a bit more thinning - we have specific instructions for different types of fruit tree (and different varieties of fruit where necessary) elsewhere on this site, but in general reduce what the June drop has left by a further 25-30%, leaving fruit evenly spaced along the branch with room to grow.
Consistent Water for Moist, Not Wet, Soil
The single most common "ailment" in fruit trees is underwatering. It takes a lot of water to make an an apple or a plum.
All fruit trees need a steady, consistent even supply of moisture. Erratic watering (as in dry spells followed by wet spells) leads to excessive fruit drop, split fruit, misshapen fruit and so on. So, incorporate plenty of well rotted organic matter in the ground when planting. And then mulch well every year with more of the same. All organic matter helps improve the structure of the soil making moisture more available to tree roots and acting as a reservoir in dry periods.
At the same time, do not overwater: if the soil is already nice and moist, do not add more water that day.
Selecting an Orchard Site
Orchards on slopes shed frost
Frost is the single biggest enemy of fruit production. Cold air is heavy and slides downhill, so keep your orchard out of dips, valleys, hollows and sheltered flat ground. Because it is heavy it displaces warmer air, so the warmest spots at night tend to be 100-300 feet above sea level on a slope away from the prevailing wind.
Wind shelter
Those warm, sunny southwest facing slopes also get the prevailing wind, which inhibits pollinating insects. A sheltered north-east facing slope is often better for fruit than an exposed south-western one.
Don't plant too high.
Above 300 feet, temperatures drop by 1 degree Fahrenheit for each 300 foot increase in altitude. There are successful orchards at 800 feet, but above that there are challenges; wind shelter is essential to protect your trees and allow pollination.
Get the soil right
The number one soil requirements are adequate drainage and sufficient moisture. The worst soil is potter's clay in a low-lying area that is underwater all winter and brick hard all summer. Fruit tree roots need to breathe and access to water to help swell their fruit. Good soil texture helps moisture retention: fruit splitting is a classic sign of an uneven water supply.
Fruit split
A disfiguring condition, not a disease, caused by an irregular supply of water. The splits usually occur when a protracted dry spell ends and the fruit swells too quickly.
Splits, often branched, usually not very deep, appear on the skin, allow diseases and pests to attack the otherwise healthy fruit.
The remedy is to ensure your fruit trees have a steady supply of water, aided by mulch, and to improve the soil well at planting time if it is dry.
Good compost & mulch helps the soil retain moisture. Apply mulch every spring, when the soil has warmed up and is wet.
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